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19 May 2024

Sunscreen: How to Choose and Use It Correctly

Applying sunscreen is an essential step in caring for and protecting your skin every day. Yet not everyone truly understands sunscreen. This article answers some common questions about its ingredients, benefits, how it works and how to use it for the best results.

1. WHAT SPF DO YOU NEED FOR EFFECTIVE SUN PROTECTION?

SPF measures how well a cosmetic product protects against UVB rays. It is rated by the percentage of protection and the number of hours it works once applied to the skin. According to the international rating scale, 1 SPF limits the impact of UV rays on the skin for about 10 minutes.

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No sunscreen blocks 100% of UVB rays. Today, sunscreens range from SPF 15 at the lowest to SPF 100 at the highest. In general, you should choose a sunscreen with SPF 30 to 60 and a UVA-UVB protection ratio of 1:1⁄3. The higher the SPF, the stronger the UVB protection, but UVA protection decreases. The product also stays on the skin longer, which can easily clog pores, causing breakouts and oiliness and accelerating skin aging.

Products with SPF above 60 should only be used on areas being treated for melasma, on allergic skin, or for other special skin conditions. For acne-prone or inflamed skin, choose a sunscreen with SPF 15–60 to reduce irritation.

2. HOW DOES IT WORK?

Sunlight reaching the Earth contains ultraviolet (UV) rays. With frequent, long-term exposure, they damage the skin. UV rays can cause tanning, dryness and sunburn, and can even lead to malignant conditions such as skin cancer.

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There are 3 types of UV rays:

  • UVA (causes skin thinning, darkening and melasma)
  • UVB (causes burns and sunburn, and over time may lead to skin cancer)
  • UVC (blocked by the ozone layer, so it does not damage the skin)

Sun protection products work in 2 ways:

  • Physical: Contain zinc oxide (ZnO) or titanium dioxide, which deflect UV rays so they don't reach the skin.
  • Chemical: Contain chemical filters such as octisalate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, homosalate, octinoxate, octocrylene… These absorb into the skin and help prevent UV damage.

3. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL SUNSCREEN?


Physical sunscreen

Chemical sunscreen

Ingredients

Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide (ZnO).

Chemical filters such as octisalate, oxybenzone, homosalate, octocrylene,…

How it works

The layer sits on top of the skin like armor, protecting it from UV damage.

Acts as a UV filter, absorbing, processing and breaking down UV rays before they can harm the skin.

Pros

– Gentle and rarely irritating, suitable for sensitive to extremely sensitive skin
– You can go out right after applying, with no need to wait for it to absorb
– Comprehensive protection against both UVA and UVB
– Stable protection under environmental conditions

– Wide variety of formulas and SPF levels.
– Thin, lightweight texture that rarely clogs pores.
– No white cast and no greasy shine
– Suitable for mild acne, blackheads, oily and combination skin

Cons

– Thick, dense texture that can clog pores, increase oiliness and dull the skin.
– Leaves a white cast on the skin, especially on darker skin tones, which looks less appealing.
– Easily washes off with heavy sweating during outdoor activities or contact with water

– Potential to irritate sensitive skin, causing itching or redness
– Less stable; needs reapplying every 2 hours, and you must wait 15–20 minutes for it to take effect.
– Less stable under environmental conditions, so chemical sunscreen needs reapplying more often than physical sunscreen

Keep in mind: Without sun protection, all your skincare efforts are wasted.

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As we know, when skin is directly exposed to UV rays in harsh sunlight without any protection, signs of aging start to appear, such as freckles, dullness, melasma and wrinkles. Don't let your beautiful skin suffer such "injustice". The earlier you start using sun protection, the younger, healthier, smoother and more radiant your skin will be.

4. Should you choose physical or chemical sunscreen?

Now that you have the key information to tell physical and chemical sunscreens apart, Luna will help you choose the right UV protection. First of all, neither physical nor chemical sunscreen can be judged simply as good or bad. What matters is understanding how each protects your skin from the sun, and whether it suits your needs. According to experts, to make a smart choice between chemical and physical sunscreen, pay attention to each product's characteristics, texture and ingredient list. Specifically:

PHYSICAL sunscreen products:

  • Work as soon as they are applied to the skin
  • Low rate of irritation
  • May leave a white cast, especially on darker skin tones
  • If you have sensitive to extremely sensitive skin, a physical sunscreen with gentle ingredients will be your perfect match. Physical sunscreen also suits those with normal to dry skin
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Suggested product: Invisible Physical Defense. A physical sunscreen that protects skin from UV rays + blue light

CHEMICAL sunscreen:

  • Needs time to absorb into the skin before it starts protecting
  • Usually has a thinner texture than physical sunscreen
  • Popular because it blends well with skin tone
  • Doesn't streak when you sweat or get oily
  • May cause reactions on highly sensitive skin
  • Chemical sunscreen has a thin, lightweight texture that absorbs quickly, making it a good choice for oilier skin
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Suggested product: Skinperfect Primer SPF30 – A 3-in-1 sunscreen and primer

So check the ingredient list to choose a product that suits your skin type (oily, combination, dry) and skin condition (acne-prone, sensitive, weakened,…)

5. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT SUN PROTECTION

5.1 Is there a difference between sunscreen for the face and for the body?

Facial skin is usually thinner and more sensitive than skin elsewhere on the body, and it takes the most direct sun exposure. So choose a separate UV protection product for your face with high heat resistance and a non-greasy texture that won't clog pores.

Avoid spray sunscreens on the face because of the risk of inhaling them through the nose and mouth. If you do use a spray sunscreen for your face, spray it onto your hands first, then spread it evenly over your skin.

Whenever your skin is directly exposed to the sun, use sun protection. You should also use an umbrella, a hat, a face mask, sunglasses…

5.2 What sun protection should children and babies use?

Children's skin is far more sensitive than adult skin, so it is easily irritated, becoming itchy, red or rough. That is why dermatologists recommend physical sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide for this group to reduce irritation.

5.3 Are other excipients in UV protection products harmful?

In some sunscreens, cosmetic brands may add approved excipients to improve adhesion or boost the brightening effect. However, people prone to allergies or with conditions such as eczema or erythema may react to these excipients. So if your skin is highly sensitive or you are being treated for a skin condition, use sunscreens with purely physical filters and minimal fragrance…

5.4 How do you choose sun protection for each skin type?

  • Sensitive skin: Choose a physical sunscreen with no added fragrance or other active ingredients.
  • Oily skin: Use a product with a thin layer, in a gel or spray texture, oil-free and quickly absorbed.
  • Dry skin: Choose a sunscreen with moisturizing ingredients, and apply a layer of moisturizer beforehand to get the most out of your sun protection.
  • Acne-prone skin: Choose a thin, lightweight product that won't clog pores. Avoid products with strong fragrances, alcohol or oxybenzone.
  • Combination skin: This is a common skin type. The skin tends to be oily in the T-zone and dry in the U-zone of the face, so finding the right product can be tricky. If you have combination skin, figure out whether your skin leans more dry or more oily, then choose a product that suits that condition and the weather.

5.5 What SPF is best to use?

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Most people believe that the higher the SPF, the better the UV protection. But this isn't entirely true, because:

  • A high-SPF sun protection product may not necessarily suit the user's skin.
  • High-SPF UV protection products tend to focus more on blocking UVB than UVA.
  • The UV protection time of a sunscreen above SPF 60 isn't much longer than that of SPF 50. But high-SPF products stay on the skin longer, which can easily clog pores and damage the skin, leading to faster signs of aging.

By now, you've probably thought about your own skin and found your answer to the question "Should I use physical or chemical sunscreen?", right? The Skin Masters at Lunaria are always happy to listen and give you the best advice!

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